Friday, December 24, 2010

Moltes gràcies, Barcelona - 17

Hey! Thanks for checking out the last blog post on my fall semester in Barcelona.. It's been a lot of fun for me to put these how-do-you-dos together, and it's also been a good excuse for keeping a chronicle of my trip that I can look back on. I'm humbled that y'all have checked out "Una Estancia en el Extranjero" over 2,000 times from over a dozen countries. If you've found the updates even mildly entertaining, then I can quite happily say that my blog has served its purpose.

So this last post I'm writing from the good 'ol USA; I arrived back home late last night, after experiencing my own share of the weather mess that has plagued Europe this past week. As the columnist mentions, the whole European airport freeze seems a bit absurd: "It snows in winter. This shattering discovery has now cast Britain and France into chaos for a week, with London’s dysfunctional Heathrow airport leading British claims to be officially designated a third-world nation." In my case, Brussels hadn't quite figured out how to obtain enough de-icing fluid for their planes, so my Tuesday departure for the U.S. was delayed for two more days.. Although the really frustrating part for me wasn't even the two-day delay, but just trying to figure out what was going on after my flight was cancelled. The Continental window at Barcelona's airport is conveniently open for three whole hours a day, and amidst the chaos of many other people trying to figure out what was going on with their flights, it took me five hours - of phone calls, waiting, and communication with three different airlines - to get my flight re-booked. I'm still not sure I understand what happened, because Continental was blaming Brussels Airlines, Brussels was blaming Continental, and United Airlines (which, just to make things interesting, has sort-of merged with Continental) was thrown in the mix somewhere along the way. But the good news is that my re-routed flight took me through Madrid, which meant that yesterday I was able to avoid the disaster areas of London, Paris, Frankfurt, Amsterdam, and Brussels..

But enough of the travel situation. In this adéu to Barcelona, I figured I'd make a list of things I'll miss about that singular city and its myriad charms (the rankings have no bearing on their value, btw):

#1 - Carlos the Security Guard. Always cheerful, he would often greet me by name as I left my student residencia.

#2 - GBU. Grupos Bíblicos Universitários, a Christian group at the Autònoma, my university in Spain. Great, scripture-loving people.

#3 - Pick-up soccer games. Playing with Spaniards is always fun, as they're very skilled passers who teach you how to make the ball do the work.

#4 - Gaudí. The man, the legend. And the architect! I'll definitely miss seeing his zany but awesome creations, like the Pedrera, the Sagrada Família, and Parc Güell.

#5 - CASB. That's my study abroad program, the Consortium for Advanced Studies in Barcelona. While it's dubious how advanced the studies were, the other CASBers were definitely some advanced friends by the end of the trip.

#6 - ICB. The International Church of Barcelona. I loved my Sundays and Wednesdays with ICB, and will definitely remember it fondly. A great place of healing, rest, companionship, and prayer.

#7 - Café con leche.. That's coffee with milk (and tons of sugar if you're a real Spaniard!), a simple but delicious hot drink that's common all over the country. I love how they whip the hot milk and how the little circle of milk sits cheerfully on the top of the drink with the richly-colored ring of coffee around it.. Lovely.

#8 - Bocadillos. Some of my friends got sick of these very typical Spanish sandwiches, but I feel like I could keep eating them forever. Some of my favorites were: bocadillo de tortilla de patatas (bocadillo with potato tortilla), bocadillo de queso (cheese bocadillo), and bocadillo francesa (egg omelette).. All, of course, with abundant tomato spread on the bread.

#9 - Mis amigos. Thanks so much to all my great friends in Barcelona.. Whether you're American, Spanish, Catalan, Hungarian, Ghanaian, Indian, Swedish, English... You guys made my stay as awesome as it was.

#10 - FC Barcelona. Thank you for incredible soccer and for inspiring the passionate fan base that made watching your games so much fun.

Of course, there are many more things I will miss & cherish about Barcelona but these 10 came to mind first.

Well, I guess this is goodbye for now, at least as far as my involvement as an internauta in the blogosphere goes. I'll be heading to Panama next semester, which will be fascinating and exciting but in a different way. My time in Panama will be total immersion in tropical biology, whereas this fall has been more of a "spiritual, cultural, political exchange thing". I'll consider posting every so often about my experiences with Panamanian flora & fauna, but I definitely won't be doing the same weekly updates.

With that, thanks for reading. All that's left then is to wish you a Merry Christmas and joyful New Year!

Sunday, December 12, 2010

¡La penúltima! - 16

Welcome to the penultimate update blog post on my semester in Barcelona! (FYI: "Penultimate" means next-to-last and happens to be one of my dad's all-time favorite words.) While it's a bit sad to be so close to the end, it's also okay because going back to the US means (a) being home and (b) that CHRISTMAS is upon us. And (c) the end of blog posts will be a welcome relief to those who got bored with my updates around Week 2 - take heart, we're nearing the finish!

Ok, first order of business - just got back from Barca's 5-0 pummeling of Real Sociedad.. It was so great. The only other Barca game I've attended in person at Camp Nou was a disappointing 2-0 loss to Hércules (their only loss in 15 Liga games this year!), so I was ready to see some goals and a win. My boys played with style and finesse and definitely impressed with goals by Messi (2), Villa, Bojan & Iniesta. Highlights here. Note: If you're ever going to watch the highlights of a fútbol game in your life, watch them for this game. All five goals are just wonderful. (I love when the announcer in the highlights says, after the first goal: "It's taken to a level that Einstein would shake his head at! This is astonishing, heavenly football!!.. There aren't compliments enough in the world to throw at their feet!" Granted, he's a bit extravagant with his words, but - guys - this Barca outfit is possibly one of the best teams ever assembled.) Right now Barca is SO easy to watch; the team, as a unit, is such a well-oiled machine and they play soccer beautifully, as it should be played. Sorry if I sound sappy, but it's true. I feel so lucky to be in Barcelona when they're in this kind of form.


The whole crowd chanting "ME-SSI! ME-SSI! ME-SSI" after his 2nd scintillating goal of the night.

Andalucía - Part 2: As promised, here's what went down in Córdoba & Granada last week -

So Córdoba was small but really cool. The highlight of the city - and the reason we went - is the Mezquita-Catedral that dominates the old district. The place was formerly the Great Mosque of Córdoba, considered one of the biggest achievements of the Umayyad Caliphate (that's the 5th-largest empire in history, folks). When the Catholic Spanish took over the mosque during the Reconquista, the mosque became a Catholic Church.. Actually, if the story is told properly, over an even longer time scope, the site was pagan-Christian-Muslim-Christian!

Now that I've summarized the fist paragraph of the "Cathedral-Mosque of Córdoba" Wikipedia page, I'll talk about my own, original impressions ;). Walking around inside the Mezquita was kind of wild - inside, it's this huge, kind of dark, and very ornate behemoth. There are "candy-cane" arches EVERYWHERE and loads and loads of little chapels that line the sides of the big open areas in the center. There's also an impressive, but gaudy, cathedral in the center of the Mezquita, where I had a nice little pray, and various interesting pieces of art and decorative items throughout. Here's what the arches looked like:



After checking out the mosque, my buddy and I walked around town and ended up at the Córdoba Zoo, which was free for Spanish Constitution Day. Overall, the zoo was pretty sad because it had really small enclosures for most of the animals, but I was really happy that I got to touch an elephant's trunk! Ahhh it was so cool. Basically the gap between the elephant's enclosure and the sidewalk wasn't that big, so the elephant would reach out its trunk to investigate the ground near where the visitors are. Being a naturalist (i.e. lover of nature, not a streaker) at heart, I had to reach my hand wayy out when it was investigating with its trunk, and I guess it took a liking to me, because it reached its trunk waayyy out towards me and our respective members touched in the middle - so so cool. Sorry to leave you hanging, but I don't have the pic of the pachyderm "moment" yet - I'll put it up when I get it from my friend! Oh, and the weather was absurd: within 8 hrs in Córdoba, we hit the gamut - sunny, rainy, partly cloudy, torrential downpour, drizzling.. insane.

Granada: Really really cool city. I loved it. Awesome.

Reason #1 - The Alhambra. The Alhambra is this amazing, 14th-century Moorish palacial complex complete with extensive gardens, towers, fountains, and gorgeous Islamic art. I actually went to see it twice during my stay, and just loved it. As many of you know, Islamic art almost always uses geometric shapes and figures rather than images of people or animals. It's almost like a class assignment: "See what you can come up with when you're limited to just geometric shapes" and the results are just stunning. I also really liked how the Alhambra makes use of light.. An example below:




Examples of some cool geometric patterns in the Alhambra

Reason #2 - Granada does this sweet thing where, in practically every bar you go to, if you order a drink you get a free tapa (the term can refer to any kind of appetizer-sized food item). So, for as little as 5 euros, you can get three drinks and three appetizers, which is more or less a sizable meal! So cool. And there's often a huge menu of tapas to pick from, so it's always interesting to try different things. Even as a vegetarian, I found plenty to choose from.


Two tapas.

Reason #3 - In general, Granada is just really walkable and fun to mosey around. The sun cooperated (unlike in Sevilla) and shone pretty much the whole time we were there, making sightseeing a blast. There are some great teterías, or tea houses, in the city, which was ace for me. And zillions of little shops that sold all kinds of interesting items.

And that's about it. The Andalucía trip was the last of my travels before going home, so basically now it's just work work work until school papers and finals are done.. One week + 2 days and I'll be homeward bound!

Monday, December 6, 2010

Andando por Andalucía (Parte 1) - 15

Howdy from the south of Spain! I’m in the middle of that endearing thing that Spainiards do called a puente – a bridge between two holidays (fiestas) that they decide to go ahead and make an even longer holiday. In this case, Monday was Día de la Constitución, Tuesday (today) was the puente, and Wednesday is the Día de la Inmaculada Concepción. So far, I’ve been in Sevilla and Córdoba, and just got into Granada last tonight. Here’s how things have been so far.

Getting to Sevilla: Bear with me, but this is a whole story in itself. For the first time in my life, I went to the airport and left it without having flown anywhere. It turns out that I didn’t actually have a ticket for my Ryanair flight – a major bummer to say the least. I think what happened is that, back in October, I tried to buy my plane ticket and got a page that looked like a confirmation notification (it even said “Payment Due – 0.00 EUR”) that wasn’t a confirmation…! Of course, it’s totally my fault for not checking my flight details more carefully, but the point is that 9am Friday morning rolled around and I was without a flight in a crowded airport full of Spaniards trying to get around the country for puente. I won’t bore you with the details, but after lots of effort I finally ascertained that neither another flight (180 EUR) nor a train (250 EUR) were feasible, so luckily I found a 15-hr bus ride that charged much more reasonable fare..

Of course – having located the bus ticket – I wasn’t able to buy it by phone (you can only buy a ticket over the phone 2 days in advance), so the guy kindly directed me to their great website (that they seem very proud of).. which was having problems for the day and wouldn’t let me buy the ticket. By the time I realized that I needed to bite the bullet and go to the bus station in person, the first bus was full, so I settled for one that left five hours later. All things considered, it worked out well, and I was able do some reading on the way, but by the end of the experience I was quite frustrated with the Spanish way of doing things. As you might be aware from some of my posts, things (and by “things,” I mean government, education, transit, food, EVERYTHING) just don’t work nearly as efficiently or smoothly here as they do in the US. The note I wrote to myself after my travel experience: “NOTHING WORKS IN SPAIN YET THEY ACT LIKE THINGS DO. EMAIL, PLANES, TRAINS, PHONES, WEBSITES - THE WHOLE COUNTRY. CALL ME A SPOILED AMERICAN BUT THE WAY THINGS ARE HERE IS A COLOSSAL WASTE OF TIME AND ENERGY.”

I will stop complaining now. So Sevilla itself! It’s a really cool town, very mellow and peaceful. It’s much much smaller than Barcelona; you can go almost anywhere in Sevilla within 30 min. walking, whereas in Barca the Metro is a key part of getting around. There are also ORANGE TREES everywhere in Sevilla, which is beyond cool. And the oranges are currently in season. Of course, against my friends’ admonitions, I had to eat a couple of the fruits – very sour but edible. My buddy and I also made some fresh orange juice out of some oranges we picked, which was delicious with a bit (actually a lot) of sugar added to it. We also saw a cool little flamenco show at a bar one night. I’m sure I don’t know enough to appreciate all the intricacies of this typically Spanish dance & musical art form, but nevertheless I was fascinated by the various components that make up flamenco. There were 2 clappers, a guitar player, and a woman dancing. Basically the guitar player strums a light series of chords in a certain rhythym, the clappers add complementary emphases or syncopations, and the dancing is sort of the artistic focal point that the musical background supports. It’s a really cool tradition, and the beat often crescendoes to a frenzy that eventually culminates in a final flair by the dancer that always seems to correspond perfectly to the stopping of the music. Impressive and interesting.

A definite highlight of my time in Sevilla was church on Sunday. Of course, Catholic churches in Spain far outnumber their evangelical counterparts, so it was a bit difficult to find a good place; but, with the help of the clerk at my hostel, I found the location of a church called the Iglesia Cristiana Evangelica that sounded like it was worth a shot. When I arrived at the spot for the 11 am service, drenched and cold from the morning downpour, it was so nice to be ushered into a warm, welcoming, and authentically Andalucian Christian community. The first lady I talked to asked if it was my first time at the church, and when I said that it was, she pleasantly and sincerely said “¡Hallelujah!”, gave me a program, and planted the traditional two kisses on my cheeks. After this auspicious start, I felt right at home! The feeling continued as the praise band led us in a number of Spanish worship songs, punctuated by prayers. A couple of the songs I recognized as Spanish translations of songs I know well in English, and in general the format was very similar to my churches both in Princeton and Barcelona. And then the sermon was great! The pastor was charismatic and engaging; he often interacted with specific members of the congregation and sprinkled his talk with jokes.

I think my favorite part of his talk went something like this: “Si no tienes suficiente comunión con Dios, haz tres cosas: Uno – Ora! Dos – Ora! Tres – Ora!!! Una iglesia que ora puede cambiar el mundo.” The translation is: “If you don’t have enough communion with God, do three things: One – Pray! Two – Pray! Three – Pray!!! A church that prays can change the world.” Simple but powerful words.

It was also neat to meet another American study abroad student in the sea of Spaniards.. The girl I met goes to Brown and actually knew some of my Brown friends who I was in Sevilla with, so she played tour guide for us for an hour or two as we checked out the Alcazar and the city a bit. The Alcazar is a palace with tons of Arabic influence and beautiul gardens, as well as a sweet hedge maze! After we split ways, our group hit up the Catedral de Sevilla, which was huge and ornate. I got to see Christopher Columbus’ tomb, which was especially interesting since I’ve been reading his memoirs about traveling to the Americas for my Literatura Hispanoamericana class. It’s funny because there are so many ridiculously wrought churches and cathedrals in Spain that you almost get numb to their amazing architecture and start taking them for granted. I’m trying to avoid that as much as possible, because I know there will come a point when I’m like “Oh yea, that was incredible” and wish I could see it again.

The only real downside to our stay in Sevilla was that it rained – a lot. But, still a great trip so far and looking forward to the remaining travel in Andalucia the next couple of days. Will relate my stays in Córdoba and Granada next week! And I'll upload some photos then too.